The Marin Headlands: A Winter Exploration
As the days of the year grow shorter, the Pacific coast near San Francisco clears of fog. This is my favorite time of year to be out and about, to be in the sun; an expedition to a world away minutes from home. Recently, on a warm and hazy December afternoon, we took a jaunt to one of my favorite places, the Marin headlands.
Like all good adventures, getting to the destination is part of the fun. Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco is a thrilling preparatory to the headlands itself. As one progresses over the bridge the traffic slows. People strolling and admiring the view flank the right, bicyclists on the left. The towers of the bridge rise above, first one and then the other as you pass underneath. Painted the distinctive color, “international orange”, the towers for all their Art Deco modeling are muscular and thrilling as they suspend their cables over the roiling sea below.
Take the Alexander exit beyond the bridge. Turn left under the freeway. Turn as though heading south back onto the bridge. Veer up the hill to Conzulman road. At the rise there is a small gravel parking area on the left. follow the trail to Battery Spencer. This area is currently undergoing a native plant restoration.
The view from Battery Spencer is a familiar one to many from television and the movies, but that does not lessen the heady experience when one stands on the natural platform gazing over the cliff.
The headlands played a vital role during WW II in the defense of the bay and the nation. Strategic military batteries in the headlands, once top secret, are now linked by public trails.
Another former battery, Hawk’s Hill is now the home of the Golden Gate Raptor Observatory. From Battery Spencer, continue 1.8 miles on Conzulman road until it becomes one-way. Park off the roadway and walk up the trail on the west side of Hawk Hill past the locked gate. It is a just a few hundred feet to the summit.
Raptors, such as red tail hawks, golden eagles and peregrine falcons use the headlands as a migration thoroughfare. While on migration, birds of prey use air movements, such as rising thermals and updrafts on hills to maintain their altitude. Many hawks prefer to fly over land, avoiding open water.
Upon reaching the Golden Gate, migrating raptors are squeezed by the San Francisco Bay on the east and the Pacific Ocean on the west. Hawk’s Hill is the ideal spot to witness this remarkable migration as the raptors, if they can catch a good tail wind, zip across the two mile gap.
From their website: http://www.ggro.org/index.html
“We saw the two adult peregrines flying around and showing off. From there, the peregrine party took off. We had a total of nine buzzing the hill, chasing around red-tails and otherwise causing havok during the course of the day. We also got a nice look at an adult golden eagle.“
A few paces from the summit is the perfect bench to observe the raptor migration, passing ships and to simply commune with the beauty of it all.
Hawk’s Hill, with the cypress trees crowning the summit, can be seen from Point Bonita.
Shaded from the afternoon sun, a winding footpath leads to the Point Bonita lighthouse. Warn children that like all exciting adventures or a quest, sometimes one must proceed with caution!
Wild cabbage, Brassica oleracea, thrives on these marine cliffs.Tolerant of sea salt, but not plant competition, wild cabbage is perfectly edible. I am familiar with this type of plant from my childhood as it was one of the few things that would grow on the rocky seaside cliffs near my family’s home.
The path to the lighthouse leads through a tunnel. The sound of the ocean on three sides is like what one imagines when placing one’s ear to a nautilus.
Emerging from the roughly cut tunnel , one then crosses a bridge placed between rocky outcrops. The tunnel was dug by the Chinese workmen who also constructed the Sierra tunnels for the Transcontinental Railroad.
The atmosphere surrounding the lighthouse is diffused with mist from the surf below, blinding with reflective light.
Point Bonita lighthouse is reached by a final suspension bridge over crashing waves. Standing sentinel at the entrance of the Golden Gate, The lighthouse has guided mariners through a spot notorious for strong currents, deadly shoals, rogue waves and great white sharks! Originally the lighthouse was located higher up the hill. Frequently enshrouded by dense fog, the lighthouse was relocated to its present location just above the Pacific and below the fogline.
Living in the keeper’s residence next to the lighthouse was not without its challenges. In the early 20th century Keeper Alex Martin and his wife fashioned harnesses for their young children as they played outside. This fortunately saved young Dorothy as she was found one afternoon dangling over the cliff secured only by her tether!
Unlike Southern California, most of Northern California’s cities are inland. The coast here is wild, austere and wonderfully unspoiled. One can spot grey whales with their calves off this coast this spring as they migrate from Baja to Alaska. Look for the blow or spout up to 15 feet high. Sometimes you will see the fluke, the 12 foot wide tail of the grey whale at it descends into the deep.
The road from Point Bonita winds north to Fort Cronkhite. Once a military base during WW II, this fort, along with other military posts such as Fort Baker and the Presidio across the bay in San Francisco are now part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area and the National Park Service. Once a seasonal home of the Miwok, this beach and lagoon is today a place to contemplate, run around, fly a kite and spread your toes in the sand.
The straightforward military buildings of Fort Cronkhite have found a new life with organizations such as the Headlands Center for the Arts. Mission statement:
In creating Headlands Center for the Arts, the founders sought to re-configure the role of the artist from a marginalized position to that of a central participant in our society. Over 1,000 artists have worked with Headlands in its various programs. We host artists from different disciplines and cultural backgrounds, and our public programs bring artists together with scholars, activists and other professionals. By facilitating interaction across traditional boundaries, Headlands works to introduce artists and audiences to new creative processes, and to broaden the range of possibilities for art’s function in our society.
I honor the creative process, and I welcomed this rare glimpse into these artists’ studios. The above studio intrigued me: the tableaux of wing chair placed resolutely away from the stunning view beyond the windows; the wine bottle and glass carefully placed.
I loved this studio for its delicious ferment: the masses of squeezed paint tubes and brushes; old fashioned metal trash cans and a monitor fitted with a propeller.
I love the tubes of classic oil paints: burnt sienna, raw umber, Vandyke brown, Prussian blue, Alizarin crimson, sap green, cadmium yellow, manganese blue, titanium zinc-white…
The Headlands Center for The Arts mess hall has an open kitchen. Filled with light from south facing windows, I thought this place had a wonderful atmosphere. Dinners accompany many of their public programs. www.headlands.org
The “mess hall” walls feature hand painted paper panels; each unique panel depicting the native plants and wildlife of the headlands.
The Marine Mammal Center Hospital is currently closed to the public. Their new facility, currently under construction above Fort Cronkhite will open in 2009.
The Marine Mammal Center has rescued thousands of ill and orphaned marine mammals such as elephant seals, sea lions, sea otters, harbor seals, fur seals, dolphins, harbor porpoises and the like at their facility. Their programs have educated thousands of schoolchildren and members of the public to our interdependence with marine mammals, their importance as sentinels of the ocean environment, the health of which is essential for all life.
http://www.marinemammalcenter.org
Located in Fort Cronkhite near Rodeo beach, The Headlands Native Plant Nursery is one of five native plant nurseries operated by the The Golden Gate National Park Conservancy. These nurseries grow over 140,000 plants for up to 50 different habitat restoration projects.
Volunteer at this or any of the other nurseries: www.parksconservancy.org.
Come grow with us at the Marin Headlands Native Plant Nursery! Each year, we grow over 30,000 plants to restore natural habitats within the Marin Headlands. The dedication and support of our volunteers are vital in the effort to grow plants, collect seeds, maintain the nursery facility, and much more. Our projects are outside, fun, and always hands-on.
East of Fort Cronkhite on the San Francisco Bay is Fort Baker, set on Horseshoe Cove.
A military site since the 1860’s, Fort Baker’s distinctive colonial revival architecture was constructed in the early 20th century.
Gracious officers’ quarters were placed around an expansive parade ground. Stands of Monterey Cypress and Blue Gum Eucalyptus were established as windbreaks.
Fort Baker is now part of the Golden Gate National Park. The historic structures which had fallen into great disrepair have undergone a stunning restoration. Currently undergoing LEED accreditation for its eco practices in reuse and green build, Fort Baker is home to The Institute at The Golden Gate, an organization that partners with others to address environmental issues such as climate change and preserving urban open space.
The newest lodge in the National Park system, Cavallo Point-The lodge at the Golden Gate is acclaimed for its commitment to the highest standards of environmental sustainability.
As as special treat during our visit to the headlands, we enjoyed a memorable lunch at the restaurant at Cavallo Point Lodge, Murray Circle.
Being out in the sun and fresh air works up an appetite, and ginger spice pot de creme with homemade biscotti was the perfect way to end a day spent exploring the headlands!
This spring these tawny hills will explode with wildflowers. From military base to national park, the Marin Headlands is enjoying a renaissance. From rescuing marine mammals, tracking raptors, restoring plant habitats and creating art, people are actively working together to make a difference, in this place and for the planet. With its incomparable views, trails, soaring eagles and volunteer park stewards, the Marin Headlands delight and inspire me in every season.
I found your blog only recently, and as a resident of the Santa Cruz Mountains am somewhat familiar with the Bay area -I admire your work very much. Thanks!
Comment by Nancy Andreasen — 12. December 2008 @ 03:00
Hi Philip, what a delight to travel along with you, you give such in depth commentary. I believe I have been to the spot with the bench overlooking the bridge. We have a family photo taken there in 1985 when we visited friends who lived in SF with the same view of the bridge in the background. I loved the restored colonial buildings, the native plant restoration program, the lighthouse with dangling child, tunnels, fog and last but not least, wonderful dessert! Thanks for this well thought out post.
Frances
Comment by Frances — 12. December 2008 @ 03:08
Nancy!
What a nice comment!
Thank you so very much, you made my day!
Philip
Comment by admin — 12. December 2008 @ 03:15
Frances!
Hi!
I was very worried this was too long. I thought at the end that perhaps I should have broken it up, so I am so pleased when someone takes the time to look at it!
You just touched my heart. Thank you.
The trip to the lighthouse…That is like an adventure in miniature with the path and tunnels and bridges. yes, Little Dorothy. Oh my!
Now after an “expedition” (which this cannot really be called because that suggests trekking to glaciers, but I will call it that anyway because it is more fun) after an expedition it is so great to have a wonderful treat to savor the day!
Best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 12. December 2008 @ 03:22
Philip, your photos are always spectacular, and the accompanying narrative, always so engaging. The headlands — and the treats with which you ended your sojourn! — look wonderful.
Comment by Nancy Bond — 12. December 2008 @ 03:33
Thanks for the lovely tour and commentary. Toward the end, I started to skip part of the reading, but then backed up because I wanted to see what you had said. What fantastic photos!
Sue from Nebraska
Comment by Sue — 12. December 2008 @ 03:47
Phillip, Hello…you take beautiful photographs and give a great tour/tell a good story! Very impressive. Someday, I will get to see this in person! gail
Comment by Gail — 12. December 2008 @ 04:31
Nancy!
I am so honored by your comment.
My thoughts will be with your family tomorrow.
Reading your comments was a pleasure for me.
Warmly,
Philip
Comment by admin — 12. December 2008 @ 05:23
Comment by admin — 12. December 2008 @ 06:58
Another excellent adventure, Philip! The drama of visiting the Headlands–crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, and then crossing the footbridge to visit the lighthouse–seems the heighten the experience in a very theatrical way. You live in a beautiful area and describe it eloquently! I’ve only rushed through the area, either heading north or south. I’ll have to make a point of spending more time at the Headlands next time.
James
Comment by lostlandscape — 12. December 2008 @ 07:02
Sue!
Thank you for your comment. I imagined most would skim ahead as it a bit long, so I am so glad you read all the stories that make the whole!
I love your blog and enjoyed seeing your marvelous collections.
Best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 12. December 2008 @ 07:08
Gail, I love your blog, Clay and Limestone. You transport me to a beautiful part of the world in all your posts. I so very much appreciate your comment.
Sincerely,
Philip
Comment by admin — 12. December 2008 @ 07:09
Oh Phillip..it’s not too long at all. You have the rare gift of taking us along just as you saw it and indeed you see things so beautifully. I love the artist place photos as they show so much character. Look at all those oils and the names on the oils are such fun to hear you talk about.
The lighthouse keepers daughter is lucky to be alive! Yikes..they had to be tethered? Can you imagine such a childhood? I wonder what that little girl thought as she grew up? Did she like living there? Your writing makes me want to know so much more.
The views were awesome and the bird pics were fun. Lots of folks out there enjoying them flying across that vast bay. I didn’t realize it is two miles wide? It must be quite the event.
This is one of those post you come back to time and again. Thank you and I loved it all.
Comment by Anna/Flowergardengirl — 12. December 2008 @ 07:57
Phillip, I have seen film of the raptor migration on TV, it is one of the worlds great spectacles especially with that backdrop. Great photos and a great read, thank you. Gary
Comment by Gary — 12. December 2008 @ 12:25
What memories you’ve bought back with this post Philip!
I’m guilty of not replying to you over at Blotanical re my voluntary work in Golden Gate National Park. So here goes. We stayed in Marin County at a field studies centre used by schools. I worked for Earthwatch at the time and there was an international volunteer project working with Judd Howell, who was looking into the impact of different vegetation regimes on small mammal populations and seeing whether there was a relationship between the on-ground data and GPS surveys. So we did vegetation and mammal trapping/tracking high up on the San Francisco watershed. The group included volunteers from Germany, Japan, USA and England. It was absolutely wonderful. In our free time we were given a free run of the project’s vehicle and managed many a trip into San Francisco plus a weekend expedition into the wine country. I must look out my photos and notes form the time and write up a few posts
Comment by VP — 12. December 2008 @ 13:18
Hi James!
Thank you for your comment! The great thing about Blotanical is that when people like you comment, it is like I am taking the hike all over again with you.
Theatrical is a good way to describe crossing these two bridges!
All the best!
Philip
Comment by admin — 12. December 2008 @ 15:49
Anna!
Yay!
I loved your comment!
I am glad you mentioned the oils. I painted a little, and I love the oil paint names. Did you see the movie, “The girl with the pearl earring”? In that movie they show the creation of these colors from minerals and other materials…all so interesting.Dorothy dangling over the cliff! I asked my friend Ric what was his favorite part of the post and he said that was! It is quite an image. I want to know more, too. I saw a film once about lighthouses and their families. A woman returned to her isolated lighthouse home where she spent her childhood. She said she was not lonely, but her mother was. She found the rocky outcrop where she used to play house, and was moved when she found the hollow in the rock that she pretended was her stove. This lighthouse at Point Bonita is normally very damp and foggy!
Thanks Anna!
Philip
Comment by admin — 12. December 2008 @ 16:13
Hi Gary!
You have such a great blog. I loved your post on owls and buzzards. Thank you so much for your comment!
Best,
Philip
Comment by admin — 12. December 2008 @ 16:15
Hi VP!!!!
Thank you for sharing that! I think that is so great you did that work with Earthwatch. What a great experience to also work with people from all over the world. I would love to read more about your experiences!
Very best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 12. December 2008 @ 16:19
Good morning, Philip! As usual, reading your blog is like walking through a journal of my past–but with so much more detail and exploration! Having lived on the south end of Sausalito for many years all of this is so familiar, my old haunts. The sheer thought of it is enough to make me swoon.
Part of this post had me singing Kate Wolf’s old song, which I hope I quote correctly…
The red tailed hawk writes songs across the sky
There’s music in the waters flowing by
And I can hear a song each time the wind blows
In the golden rolling hills of California
Comment by Kathry/plantwhateverbringsyoujoy.com — 12. December 2008 @ 17:34
Kathryn!
Thank you so much for the lyrics to Kate Wolf’s song. I just love that! that captures this area perfectly. I will write this down…it will be the perfect thing to have above my desk.
Thank you so much!
All the very best!
Philip
Comment by admin — 12. December 2008 @ 19:40
Philip,
What a treat to be taken to the Headlands. As an ex- Marinite, I felt like I was there! You have such a gift to be able to put into words and photos that which I can just think. My heart sings when I read your posts. Thank you for the tour.
Jerry
Comment by Jerry Burt — 12. December 2008 @ 21:48
Hi Jerry!
Thanks so much for your lovely comment!
Sincerely,
Philip
Comment by admin — 12. December 2008 @ 22:45
I did see the movie…Girl with the pearl earring. I loved it as well. It is no surprise to me that you would paint as your garden reveals your ability to blend balance and color. Loved the story about the little girl coming back to her lighthouse home. Her mom was lonely but she was not. There are about 10 more post just in this one today. I could ask so many more questions. Fascinating how you think–just fascinating and with so much appreciation on your part of all that is around you.
Comment by Anna/Flowergardengirl — 13. December 2008 @ 05:41
Hi Anna!
What a nice comment. I just read it this morning. What a great way to start the day.
I am working on a new post!
I loved the saying on your tree!
Thanks Anna,
Philip
Comment by admin — 13. December 2008 @ 17:35
Hi Phillip! I was jazzed to see a new post by you, and what a terrific one! I used to ride my bike across the bridge through Fort Baker en route to Sausalito, and then of course did lots of walking in the Headlands once we moved to Larkspur. You’ve put together a fantastic combination of photos and history — love the stuff about the light house family! It brings history to life. It was also interesting to see what looks like grama grass around the Ft. Baker houses… very gratifying, if they are indeed substituting native grasses for lawn.
Thanks again for your gracious comments on my site, and I wish you a very happy holiday season and lots of fun hiking!
Comment by Anne — 13. December 2008 @ 20:47
Hi Anne!
Thanks for your great comment!
I have asked around, but I have not found out yet the exact genus and species of the grass. I thought it was so effective here. The shaggy tecture looked great and used en masse it tied the fort’s buildings together, I also liked the simplicity of it in this location. With only few plants such as the cypress, eucalyptus and grass, it was quite powerful.
How fun that you biked through here!
Thank you so much for your kind words!All the best to you this holiday!
Best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 14. December 2008 @ 15:27
Spectacular wide angle views. Excellent photo shots! Cannot wait to get back to SF….it has been too long
Comment by compostinmyshoe — 17. December 2008 @ 05:35
Hi,
Thank you for your comment. I loved your post on the garden, showing elements of stone, water, cactus and people.
Sincerely,
Philip
Comment by admin — 17. December 2008 @ 19:03
I understand reading this beautiful post why the Marin Headlands delight and inspire you, Philip. Thank you for sharing your wonderful, heartfelt venture. You have a great eye and gift for storytelling. Happy Holidays!
Comment by joey — 19. December 2008 @ 06:48
If there was some kind of prize for the blog with the very best field trips, your’s would win hands down. I almost feel like I got to come along, great photos of a beautiful part of the country. Thanks for letting us all tag along!!! Kim
Comment by inadvertentfarmer — 20. December 2008 @ 02:45
Kim!
Thank you so much!
I just went on a field trip this morning! I am hope to post soon.
Very best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 21. December 2008 @ 01:11
Phillip,
Dropped by…not only to finish re-reading this very interesting and well-written
post and to enjoy the great photos you inserted…but to wish you and yours a very Merry Christmas and all the best in 2009!
Jon at Mississippi Garden
Comment by Jon — 23. December 2008 @ 10:01
Hi Jon!
Merry Christmas to you!
I am hoping to post soon. Thank you so much for your wishes!
Philip
Comment by admin — 23. December 2008 @ 19:17
Just dropped by to wish you a Merry Christmas Philip. Happy Holidays!
Comment by VP — 24. December 2008 @ 17:14
Good posts on this blog make me read this blog again and again i liked this every picture of locationwise very much This blog has got all the useful stuff that i wanted to know about.Thanks
Comment by Hospice in Ventura — 12. January 2010 @ 13:21
i went to the headlands this year for a week nfield trip.. best trip ever!!!!!!!
Comment by kailee — 26. December 2010 @ 00:27